Day 1: We meet at the Yamnuska Classroom in Canmore at 7:30 am for introductions, a review of course goals and itinerary, and an equipment check. After packing up, it’s a 4-hour drive through Radium Hot Springs and down the back roads of British Columbia into the wilderness of the Purcell Mountains in Bugaboo Provincial Park. A steep but stunning hike involving 5 km and 700m of elevation gain will put us at the comfortable Kain Hut at 2230m. This will take us between 3 and 4 hours.

Day 2-4: The glaciers and towering peaks of the Bugaboos will serve as our classroom as we develop the skills needed to become confident, independent alpine rock climbers. Over the course of three days, you’ll receive a mix of hands-on climbing instruction and student-led climbs, all under the guidance and coaching of your Yamnuska-certified guide. Potential objectives include iconic routes like The Hounds Tooth, East Post Spire, Crescent Spire, or one of the classic glacier traverses that the area is known for.

Day 5: We’ll aim for one of the larger, more demanding spires in the area, giving you the perfect opportunity to put your newly acquired skills to the test. This day will blend instruction with practical experience, as your guide demonstrates how to move efficiently and confidently on a more challenging route. Potential objectives include iconic peaks like Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Spire, and Snowpatch Spire. Be prepared for a big, exciting day that’s both challenging and deeply rewarding.

Day 6: A final shorter student-led objective in the area will be attempted before we descend to the vehicles and return to Canmore. The Bugaboos have many ideal student-led objectives that will build your confidence and give you the skills to start climbing alpine rock objectives. You will likely begin planning your next trip to the Bugaboos on your way back to the car!

Curriculum

There is considerable flexibility built into the delivery of this course, no course is exactly the same. Snow, weather, and route conditions in Bugaboo Provincial Park will dictate the order to provide the highest quality program.

Key topics will be constantly revisited during the program.

Topics include:

Glacier Skills:

Snow and Ice Movement Review
Use of Ice Axe
Self Arrests
Snow and/or Ice Anchors
Walking with Crampons
Use of Rope on Glaciers
Crevasse Rescue –2-man rope team systems

Alpine Rock Scrambling Skills:

Safe Movement Skills
Route finding
Managing Loose Rock
Rope use

Rock Protection:

Placing Nuts and Cams
Clipping Protection
Building Anchors using gear and natural features
The Multi-Pitch System

Navigation:

Map and Compass Use
Route Planning
Pacing

Hazard Evaluation and Route Selection:

Rock Fall
Snow and Avalanche Conditions
Bergshrunds
Weather
Accident and Emergency Procedures

Intermediate Ice Climbing Clinic